The words chemical and peel on their own can be somewhat daunting for some but put together some people are downright ready to jump out of their skins. Yet chemical peels are one of the most popular treatment protocols in most aesthetic clinics and MedSpas (Amoke Skincare included).

Let me start by saying that although a chemical peel is exactly what it sounds like; applying a chemical (acid) to the skin in order to elicit a peeling response, it is extremely safe when done by qualified professionals and particularly effective for treating a variety of skin concerns. 

I’ll get a bit science-y on you now by defining a chemical peel. "Chemical peeling, also called chemexfoliation, chemosurgery, or dermapeeling, is the application of one or more exfoliating agents to the skin, resulting in destruction of portions of the epidermis and/or dermis with subsequent regeneration of new epidermal and dermal tissues." We essentially initiate a controlled burn in the upper layers of the epidermis (topmost layer of skin) in order to accelerate the natural desquamation (shedding of dead skin cells) process and skin cell renewal to reveal newer, fresher skin. The acid fools your skin into thinking it’s been injured, which then drives it to produce more collagen and elastin to heal itself. This makes the skin look fresher, smoother and plumper. 

You're asking "Why do I need a chemical peel"? For a variety of skin conditions 

Acne

Using peels such salicylic acid and jessner are particularly effective in acne treatment. These peels penetrate the pores to unclog them and rid them of dirt, sebum and acne causing bacteria. With a BHA peel, one might experience purging and so it may get worse before it gets better. 

Hyperpigmentation 

Peels such as TCA, glycolic acid and combination (or designer) peels that are pre-formulated with ingredients like tranexamic acid and azelaic acid help tackle uneven pigmentation in the skin. They contain tyrosinase inhibitors which work at the enzyme level to prevent the mechanism by which melanin is produced in the skin. The effect is to lighten the areas of discolouration on the skin. 

Fine lines and wrinkles 

Glycolic acid and retinol are popular peels for anti-aging purposes. Retinol in particular speeds up the cell renewal process, which can cause purging and peeling. Your skin then produces more collagen and elastin to provide a firmer, more plump appearance. Chemical peels will not remove deep wrinkles or tighten sagging skin.

Acne scarring 

Some stronger peels like TCA can be effective in treating acne scars. Although micro needling and laser are excellent modalities for the treatment of deep atrophic scars.

Will I peel?

This is dependent on the type of acid used and the number of layers applied. 2 layers of TCA will give you a definitive peeling, whilst 3 layers of 10% salicylic acid may only give you slight flaking. A few other determinants are how recently you exfoliated or used retinoids and if extractions took place beforehand (if yes the acid penetrates deeper likely causing more peeling or even blanching but that’s for another post).

How many peels will I need?

There is no rule of thumb when it comes to how many peels are needed to treat a particular concern. If you’ve decided to go down this route, be prepared (financially and mentally) for a course of peels: anything from 3-6 depending on the severity of the skin concern. I hope this post has allayed your fears about chemical peels and maybe even gotten you excited about using this approach to treat one of the aforementioned skin conditions. 

Aftercare…

We don’t just apply acid to your skin and throw you away. We provide very detailed aftercare instructions and we stay in touch to ensure your results are as expected. And if they aren’t, we work with you to correct it. I earlier mentioned being mentally prepared for a peel. There are quite a few things you can’t do in the immediate days following a peel as well as the fact that the appearance of a peeling face isn’t particularly pleasant. So it’s best to schedule it for when you don’t plan to do much afterwards. 

At Amoke Skincare, we offer a range of Marble packages that tackle acne and/or hyperpigmentation. Get in touch today to discuss which could work for you.

Source:

Chemical Peeling and Dermabrasion, Sheilah A. Lynch MD, Karl A. Schwarz MD, MSc, FRCSC, in Plastic Surgery Secrets Plus (Second Edition), 2010